contemporary design's

Wooden Charms

2011-05-30T04:37:00.001-07:00

Wooden Charms
As you approach this two-level house, the first thing that greets you is a large timber deck, with giant bi-fold doors linking the living area to the outside space.
This area gets drenched in sunshine, allowing meals to be shared outside throughout the year. Just around the corner is the external beach shower, used as often as Clif can squeeze in a quick surf at the nearby beach.

The spacious living area can be completely opened up to the elements, thanks to the folding glass doors. The double-height ceiling and a row of high windows make the room feel huge. The boxy white sofa and matching armchairs were discovered at a charity shop. 'There was no way I was going to pass up the chance to snap them up!' says Ingrid. For similar seating, try the Indivi 2 sofa and Fly chair, both by BoConcept.

The common theme throughout the house is the extensive use of Australian timbers. The floors are ironbark, the fascia and external walls are western red cedar, the kitchen bench is one giant piece of river red gum, and the cabinets are Sydney blue gum veneer. 'We tried to incorporate as much recycled timber as we could; we both love the sense of history it gives and it's more eco-friendly,' says Clif.

In keeping with the rest of the house, the open-plan kitchen is simple but well thought out. The focal point of the space is the island unit topped with a single piece of river red gum that took many hours to get a highly polished look.

The open-plan kitchen is dominated by a large bench top made from a single slab of red gum. 'Clif and a friend spent many weekends filling this slab with resin, and sanding it back for the final process. It was quite the labour of love!' laughs Ingrid. The adjoining living area is a large open space framed by the more formal dining area. The fireplace is lit every night during the cooler months, although it's more for ambience than practicality as the entire house has ducted natural gas heating. 'Flynn and Archer love to collect sticks for the fire,' says Ingrid. 'It is also a bit of a ritual for them to get dry by the fire after a bath then have a story before bed.'

Electric Interiors

2011-05-30T04:34:00.000-07:00

Eclectic Interiors
The couple's love of art and collections is evident throughout their home, thanks to the array of interesting ornaments displayed on every surface.
Ingrid is an avid collector, and with friends who range from photographers to artists, each area is a mini installation and personalises the space. She juxtaposes inexpensive bottles with signed artwork, and pieces found on the beach in Bali with vintage earthenware. The eclectic collection of furniture is a constant work in progress, with trips to markets, traders and antique dealers. The re-upholstered sofas and chairs, saved from the local charity shop, are covered in a fetching white vinyl and work well against a 1970s coffee table discovered in a junk shop. 'Bits and pieces have been collected during our many trips to Bali and Lombok. Most curios were found by chance, poking around, as you do on holidays,' explains Ingrid.

The 1920s mannequin in Ingrid's studio was a 21st birthday gift and has travelled with her for 13 years. Piles of vintage fabrics on the second-hand table await the design process to be transformed into this season's range.

Each detail of Clif and Ingrid's home is well considered, as the owners took full responsibility of the interior, while the building and external features were orchestrated by their architect. With the vast amount of glass within the house, the lighting alters continually, casting a different mood in each of the areas depending on the time of year. 'In winter, the early morning light from the living space is magical and completely different to what it's like in the summer,' explains Clif. 'My favourite thing is to watch the mist lift off the trees in the gully.'

The use of Australian wood continues in the spacious bathroom with its ironbark bath surround. The feature porthole was originally from a local ship and the couple bought it in a garage sale.

This thoughtful consideration of how they want to use their home continues in the master bedroom. It's the perfect environment for lazy brunches with the twins as the room spills onto a west-facing deck, affording Clif and Ingrid a view of the garden and the activities of the two boys searching the surrounding bush for lizards before reporting back to the house.
This family house, with its sociable layout and extensive outdoor living space, really does epitomise easy living. 'It's always been our dream to live by the beach and I have to say that it's lived up to every one our expectations,' says Clif. 'If there's anyone else out there thinking about building their own home, just go for it. You won't be disappointed!'

A Life Of Sun And Surf

2011-05-30T04:32:00.000-07:00

Desperate for a house that suited their love of outdoor family living, Clif and Ingrid Daniell scoured the coastline to find their spot by the sea.

A Life of Sun And Surf

Nestled among sea grass, tea trees and other Australian native plants is Clif and Ingrid Daniell's dream home, perched conspicuously above Australia's most famous surfing beach, Bells Beach. The couple agree this is Australian coastal living at its best and waking up here everyday is their idea of paradise.
Jan Juc and the neighbouring town of Torquay create a surfing mecca with many excellent beaches within a stone's throw, so no surprise that this is where international surfing label Rip Curl originated.
Clif and Ingrid's life revolves around the sun, surf, and fabulous home they share with their two-year-old twin boys, Flynn and Archer. What's more, they even get to work from home: Clif operates his graphic design business from a studio attached to the property, and Ingrid, a fashion designer, runs her business from home.

'We used to live in central Melbourne but always hankered for a beach house like this where we could bring up our two boys,' says Ingrid. The glass bi-fold doors open up the back of the timber-clad house to the ocean. The awning-covered broad decking allows the family to enjoy alfresco dining, whatever the weather.

The property was designed specifically to nestle into the natural surroundings, and as the land was excavated to make sure no other properties could be seen on the skyline, it has lived up to its design brief. You are more likely to hear the crash of distant waves than noise from the street, or have your view interrupted by a flock of Rosellas (Australian parrots) than a chimney or a rooftop. The decision to use architect Susan Petch came about upon discovery she had designed some of the cottages at Dinner Plain, a village in the snow fields of south-east Australia (yes, it does actually snow over there). 'We liked the feel of a modern cottage with high ceilings and lots of light,' explains Ingrid. 'Susan seemed to be on the right path with her style.'

Transforming A Georgian House

2011-05-19T04:32:00.000-07:00

Business partners and housemates, Richard Skelton and Dick Mawdsley, have transformed an unloved townhouse into a superb home and showcase for their interiors store.

After living and working in London as surveyors for 13 years, old friends, Richard, Dick and Katie wanted a life change. So, they decided to quit their jobs, become business partners and relocate to Liverpool. 'I'm originally from Liverpool, but that had very little to do with us starting our business here,' says Dick. 'At the time, we felt that Liverpool had been off the radar as far as companies and investment were concerned.

Everyone was talking about Manchester and Glasgow but we saw the potential in Liverpool with its buoyant local business market, big music industry, design and media companies and two large universities. We felt that there was a huge market that wasn't being catered for, and also less competition for a newly fledged business.'
This wasn't a decision that was taken lightly. Richard, Dick and Katie had never even worked together let alone run a business before, and so the move was a leap of faith that everything would work out. Luckily, it did. That was eight years ago and they haven't looked back.

Georgian designers certainly knew how to create a grand entrance. Grandiose furniture, such as this reproduction gilt mirror and table, add to the drama. The runner is from Hill & Co. For French-style furniture, try La Maison.

On arriving in Liverpool, their initial commercial venture was the Coffee Union, a gourmet coffee store for Liverpool, long before anyone had even heard of Starbucks. Katie and Richard quit their jobs six months before Dick, to research the business and come up with the concept. As a team, they tapped into the market at just the right time and Coffee Union became a huge hit, while the architect who worked with them won a RIBA award for the design of their first store.
While the trio settled into life in Liverpool, Dick, a hoarder of information on design products and cuttings from interiors magazines, gradually became aware that there was nowhere to buy contemporary interiors products in Liverpool. It frustrated him and he recognised there was a huge gap in the market that needed to be filled.

A Cutting Edge Modern Apartment

2011-05-19T04:31:00.000-07:00

Chloe Lee's unapologetically modernist apartment strikes a blow for urban chic in leafy suburban Chiswick.
Mention Chiswick and you immediately picture a pleasant, middle-class, family enclave in west London. The streets are clean, the schools are good, there are decent shops,
including some interiors shops, and the high street has the usual chain restaurants. In fact there's very little wrong with Chiswick and therein lies its problem: it is a bit dull.
Which is why Chloe Lee's penthouse apartment comes as a pleasant surprise. You would expect to find the modernist loft building in urban Clerkenwell but not at the end of a Victorian terraced street in W4.

The Pop fireside chair by Christian Werner for Ligne Roset gives this open-plan living area a colourful 1960s vibe. The large painting was an inspired find at a local art fair.

Once a factory, the apartments are made up of three buildings: two 1930s blocks and a new building constructed 10 years ago on the site of the original 1960s block. Chloe lives in the penthouse with her husband John, a one-time architect and current property developer, and their two children, Mia (8) and Jackson (11).
They bought the flat from the developer owner when it came on the market a few years ago. 'The flat was rented out and obviously designed for a bachelor boy who hired caterers when he had a dinner party,' recalls Chloe. 'In terms of design, the place was a total joke. The kitchen was on the gallery and the flat looked just like a gym.'

A Self Build Hollywood House

2011-05-19T04:27:00.000-07:00

When Robert Vannewkirk and Angel Roberts outgrew their small bungalow in the Hollywood Hills, they knocked it down and replaced it with a home that's the epitome of laid-back living.
Remember those old-fashioned sweet shops, filled with an enticing array of multicoloured treats?
Well, taking a walk around Angel and Robert's vibrant home is a pretty similar experience. Colourful striped walls, multihued furniture and eclectic accessories are all key to their way of decorating. And you can't help but feel that it must be an incredibly fun way to live.

Getting this fabulous family home for their two girls, eight-year-old Georgia and three-year-old Hazel, has taken some serious work, however. Occupying the plot in the Hollywood Hills where their three-bedroom house now stands used to be a compact two-bedroom bungalow. 'At the time it was perfect for us,' recalls Robert. 'We lived in an apartment not far from here and we loved the area. It's sort of a hidden neighbourhood but still within easy walking distance of all the main attractions.' The small bungalow was ideal for the young family of three, but when Angel fell pregnant with Hazel they realised it was time to move on.

Decorated with leftover paint from other rooms, the hallway offers a taste of what's to come in the rest of the house. You can buy the RAR rocking chair by Charles Eames from twentytwentyone. Available in several colours, it costs £329.

'We'd already decided that we liked the idea of building our own home so it was just a matter of finding the right plot,' adds Robert. 'Or so we thought!' That seemingly small matter proved to be more difficult than they'd anticipated, and when the sale of a nearby plot fell through, they turned their attention to their existing home. 'After talking with our architect, we realised that we could knock down the small bungalow and, with some clever planning, build a two-storey, three bedroom home in its place,' he adds.
With no home to speak of, the family moved back into their old apartment for a year and a half while the old bungalow was demolished and the construction of their new home got under way. 'Lots of people have completed similar projects in the area, but they've often sacrificed outdoor space for a bigger home,' explains Robert. 'But with two young children, that wasn't something we were prepared to do.'

10 Essential Steps For Investors

2011-04-11T05:00:00.000-07:00

So you've decided to invest in a property abroad, but can you be sure you've got all your bases covered? Let our handy hints show you what you really need to know before taking the plunge.

1 Have An Exit Strategy

If all goes to plan, your overseas purchase should be worth big bucks somewhere down the line - but remember, you'll only be able to get your hands on all that cash if you can get someone else to buy it. So, the first thing any budding property investor should think about when weighing up a potential purchase is how and when to sell it. Of course, you can't bank on this going to plan - the market might stagnate or dip - so you should only ever go into a property investment abroad knowing you can afford to lose the money you have put into it. Sounds dramatic? Yes, but oh, so sensible.

2 Have A Letting Strategy - If You Need It

If you're buying with cash and looking to make a quick buck through capital growth, letting the property probably won't be your top priority. But if you're planning on a medium to long-term investment with a mortgage in place, letting will be vital to the viability of the project. You need to decide from the outset if your property will attract holiday lets or longer term local lets. For this, you will need to do some serious research... You also need to look into what you can do legally and what licences you need to obtain to be able to do either type of let in the country of your choice.

3 Research The Country

Don't rely solely on official or government websites for your information, especially in countries with, shall we say, 'shady' pasts - these can be more about marketing the country to foreign investors (such as yourself) than providing reliable factual information. In general, the questions you should be asking are:

Is the country politically stable? Will some future change, such as joining the EU, provide a shot in the arm, or could a similar change endanger your investment?
Is the economy growing? What about income levels and employment levels? Are foreign companies moving to the region and investing (their employees can be a good source of well-paid tenants)?
How much property development is going on, where, and how much competition will this create for tenants and buyers (in Bulgaria there is much talk of oversupply in the ski resorts and on the Black Sea)?

4 Research The Local Area

Check out transport links to main cities and airports - any future improvements are likely to drive up property prices so try and find out about any plans that are in the pipeline.

Similarly large events such as the World Cup or Olympics can provide a perfect opportunity for investors. If you are looking to let your property to holiday makers you should investigate local amenities that might set the area apart - golf courses and beach access are always a plus, while unusual cultural attractions can also prove to be a big draw.

5 Choose The Right Property

If you plan on letting to holidaymakers, consider who your tenants will be (families, young couples, pensioners) and talk to agents to find out what properties and features are most popular with each group.
If you buy in an established tourist area, it can be advantageous to have something that sets your property apart from the rest. A pool, a Jacuzzi, a sea-view, or even just a larger number of bedrooms than other properties up for rent - it may be worth paying more for something with a USP. If you buy in a large development, find out how many of the properties are owned by investors and how many are private homes - a good mix of each reduces competition.
If your goal is investment only, don't neglect long local lets - they are less much less hassle and responsible tenants will often ensure the property is well looked after. Remember, long term tenants will be looking for creature comforts - a home rather than a holiday flat -so choose your property accordingly. A swimming pool may not be as important to them as fitted wardrobes and off-street parking.

6 Finance

Apart from the lucky few who are cash buyers, you need to find out how easy it will be to get finance - this will be especially important if you want to re-mortgage a first property to buy a second.

When the time comes for money to change hands, make sure that you are not losing out because of poor exchange rates. Check out specialist currency companies like Money Corp and HIFX to find out how to avoid being caught out. And don't forget to factor in any additional costs: stamp duty, taxes, fees, and so on often mount up, so it don't be surprised when things turn out more expensive than planned.

7 Buying

Always take up independent legal advice from a specialist who speaks the local language and knows the local system. Remember ownership can be more complicated and opaque overseas, so it's vital to establish that the person selling is actually the owner, and that the agent involved has the authority to sanction the deal. Never sign any documents or make any 'up front' payments without first checking with your legal adviser.
Make sure there are no outstanding payments due on the property, as you may find yourself liable for these when taking on ownership. With off-plan purchases, check the developer's previous work and reputation - and get your lawyer to read over any contracts before you sign them.

8 Running Costs

If you plan to let, don't forget insurance, local taxes, maintenance, marketing costs, management fees and service charges. If you're relying on rental income, it is vitally important to factor any void periods into your calculations.

9 Selling-On Costs

Don't forget to check out the rules on inheritance tax and capital gains tax before you buy. How these are structured can often determine how you should go about buying - in some countries it's better to set up your own company or buy in the name of a child in order to sidestep hefty taxes.

10 Do Yet More Research

You simply can't do enough research into buying in your chosen country. It's worth consulting the Which? guide, Buying Property Abroad, as well as dedicated property magazines and supplements in the national press. Check out our buying and selling abroad pages and visit www.aplaceinthesun.com, too.

Expos and events such as A Place in the Sun Live have useful seminars and huge amounts of interesting information for prospective investors. Developers, agents and various other middle men often put on presentation evenings - these can be useful but remember they are sales people above all else.
Embassies and official tourist websites can give useful information on a country's economy and development, but try not to take it all at face value. Perhaps most importantly, talk to other people who have bought in the area or the development that interests you - they are speaking from experience and will often provide a valuable insight into the experience you can expect as an investor.

The views represented in this article are those of the author and not of Channel 4. The purpose of the article is to provide general information only and does not constitute financial, investment, legal or other advice.You should not rely on any information provided in this article and you should always seek out independent professional advice relevant to your own particular circumstances.

Colours To Brighten Dark Bedrooms

2011-04-11T04:54:00.000-07:00

Pick Light Coloured Bedlinen Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Choose Glimmering Bedlinen Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Buy A See Through Bed Frame Average User Rating: 5.0/5

Pick Wallpaper With A White Background Average User Rating: 3.0/5

Use Holdbacks On Generous Curtains Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Fit A Roman Blind That Allows Light Through Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Add A Big Light Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Find Mirrored Furniture Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Shutters Let In The Most Light Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Hang Mirrors Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Pick A Sunny Wall Colour Average User Rating: 0.0/5

A Down-To-Earth Attitude

2011-04-08T08:37:00.000-07:00

When people used to tell me they loved my floorboards and wanted to know what colour they were, I'd be honest and say 'It's dirt! 'Such was the down-to-earth approach of Mary Curran when she was renovating her Victorian dream home in a central Melbourne suburb.
Now, the house that she shares with husband Ben and 15-month-old Stella is unrecognisable - and packed with easy style.

Chinese lanterns flank Flemish chandeliers, crystal sits beside plastic, and ethnic pieces reside easily with modern design. It's a mishmash of styles, but the result is an overriding sense of comfort. 'I am very much a homebody,' she says. 'I love to have all my favourite things around me as it makes me feel comfortable. But I also like everything to be as low-maintenance as possible. That's why I generally go for pieces that are aged rather than shiny and new.'
'I went for a plain sofa so I could add accents of pattern and colour with cushions and accessories,' explains Mary. If you've been won over by her dark wood furniture, visit www.lombok.co.uk for similar items.

Mary is Irish born, but has lived and worked in Melbourne as an interior designer for several years. Her style covets strong simple furniture, particularly the eclectic mix of French, Spanish and Italian country pieces with Japanese and Chinese design. This unusual combination sits surprisingly well in this renovated Victorian home, which the couple purchased two years ago after only nine months spent in their previous house.

'It was classic Victorian,' says Mary, of the original floor plan. 'There were four bedrooms and the owners had added an extension at the back, which blocked out all the natural light. So, we basically knocked down the entire back half of the house and redid the whole thing.' The renovation took a year to complete and merged the four original bedrooms at the front of the house with a new living area at the rear.

Finding The Perfect Spot

2011-04-08T08:35:00.000-07:00

Tanja and Brevan Robinson's discovery of a sheltered plot of land on the slopes of Table Mountain in Cape Town was the start of a difficult three years building their magnificent family home.

'Our first home together was a beautiful old Victorian house in Oranjezicht,' explains Tanja Robinson. 'It was stunning and we'd worked hard renovating it, but it was very, very windy - something you have to get used to in Cape Town.' However, on a chance walk along a different route with their golden retriever Moya (aptly the Xhosa word for wind), Tanja discovered what was to become her new home. Nestled away in the Higgovale area, just four roads from where they were living, the weather was completely still, even when it was blowing a gale at their current home.
The Robinsons love entertaining and Tanja also holds wine-tasting events at home as part of her export business, so open-plan living is ideal.

Stunned by the stillness of this protected area, Tanja spoke to an estate agent friend who lived nearby and expressed her delight at finding the quiet location. She was amazed to be told that there was a plot of land available and, although pregnant with twins and looking forward to an easy move into a ready-made house, Tanja and husband Brevan felt they just couldn't pass up the opportunity to live in such an ideal spot. Initially the plot didn't even include the driveway or garage, but they put in an offer anyway and, after a bit of negotiating, the deal was sealed and the hard work could start.

Down With Doors

2011-04-08T08:30:00.000-07:00

Doors aren't usually something you give lots of attention to when refurbishing a flat, but Louisa Guinness and Ben Brown aren't your usual homeowners, and their south London flat is far from run-of-the-mill.

When the couple bought it four years ago, they set to work with architects to bring out the best in the attractive, three metre tall rooms, including the living area with its five, long, south-facing windows.

The first things to go were many of the interior doors. 'There were just too many of them,'says Louisa. 'Five in the entrance hall, a couple in the main room and others opening into the bedrooms and bathroom. We got rid of some, enlarged a few rooms and, where we needed doors, had them made so they open flat against a wall or disappear into it.'

Next on their list was swapping rooms about. 'The kitchen was at the back of the flat in what has become our son's bedroom, and where the kitchen is now, there was originally a bathroom,' says Louisa. 'The kitchen is important for us because we love to cook and often entertain friends and clients here,' she explains. The resulting changes have given them an open-plan functional space with two steel sinks, an oven and a broad white Corian-clad unit, which conceals appliances and storage beneath. The unit also serves as a divide between the kitchen and dining areas.

10 Best Dining Chairs

2011-04-08T08:24:00.000-07:00

An original design manufactured by Vitra, the Panton Chair has been through a number of production phases since its original launch. The last version of the
chair authorised by Verner Panton was produced in collaboration with the designer at the end of the 1990s. This model realised one of Panton's fundamental objectives for the first time: a plastic chair as an inexpensive industrial product. Panton chair (H83cm x W50cm x D61cm), £177

Modern Rustic Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Budget Beauty Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Highly Recommended Average User Rating: 0.0/5

New Twist Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Bold & Bright Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Cool & Chic Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Artful Inspiration Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Contemporary Lloyd Loom Average User Rating: 0.0/5

French Feel Average User Rating: 0.0/5

10 Best Climbing Frames For Your Garden

2011-04-08T08:19:00.000-07:00

Best Wooden Set For Big Gardens Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Blending Into The Garden Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Making Up Stories Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Toddlers Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Staying Put Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Boys Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For A Boy/Girl Mix Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best Wooden Set For Smaller Gardens Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best Metal Set For Big Gardens Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For 10-Year Olds And Older Average User Rating: 0.0/5

10 Best Beds

2011-04-08T08:16:00.000-07:00

Edland Four-Poster Double Bed Frame Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Antoinette in Parisienne Cream Average User Rating: 0.0/5

McCord Venus High Gloss Double Bedstead Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Retro Double Upholstered Bed Average User Rating: 0.0/5

New Jersey Four-Poster Oak-Finish Double Bed Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Limo Walnut Veneer Bed Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Leather Bed Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Rodin Bed Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Sunday Bed In Red Mahogany Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Autograph Monroe Double Bedstead Average User Rating: 0.0/5

More Shopping Sources Average User Rating: 0.0/5

10 Floor Lamps

2011-04-08T08:13:00.000-07:00

Best For Magical Lighting Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Living It Large Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For A Quiet Corner Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Retro Design Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Creating A Focal Point Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Metal Fans Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Making A Statement Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Seaside Style Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Contemporary Style Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Best For Bookworms Average User Rating: 0.0/5

Bedroom And Office

2011-04-08T08:08:00.000-07:00

It's really very simple to get the lighting right in your bedroom - but it's just as easy to get it wrong, too. You'll obviously need a pendant shade for good ambient lighting,
but that alone is not enough. Bedside lamps in some form for reading by, possibly a floor lamp to sit behind a chair, and task lighting - perhaps a lamp on your dressing table - all have their role to play, too.

Lighting Your Bedroom
Choosing bedside lights? Don't just stick to table lamps - small pendant shades either side of the bed will free up bedside table space and, because they can be hung so low, create an intimate, cosy atmosphere, too. Another option is to fix lights to the wall, but remember that if you plan to read by them, they need to be just above the height of your head when you're lying down.

If you're rewiring the room anyway, get a switch fitted to the wall on each side of your bed so you can control both the bedside and overhead lighting without having to move. Luxury...
Dimmer switches are a must for bedrooms. Fit them to the source of your ambient light, whether this comes from an overhead light or a number of wall lights around the room. Don't forget, though, that you need to use low-voltage dimmer switches for any low-voltage fittings. You can't fit a mains voltage dimmer, so it's important to remember to check carefully before you buy.

Lighting Your Office

Whether it's a separate home office or simply a corner where you pay the bills and organise your diary, good task lighting is essential. In a separate room, it's worth investing in halogen spot downlighters as well as a good desk lamp, and don't forget, you can use decorative touches, such as clip-on picture lights to show off paintings or notice boards, and even a floor-standing task light to make the room feel less like an office and more like home.

Getting It Right
For computer work, a desk lamp is ideal but you could also use a floor lamp with a flexible or angle-arm, which will help free up space on the desktop. Low or mains voltage halogen desk lamps are ideal for producing a clean, clear light to work by.

If space is tight, clip-on spotlights are useful, and you can move them about the room as you need to. Your light should be able to take a 60-watt bulb at least, as it must be brighter than the others in the room.
Place your desk lamp opposite your writing hand or you'll be working in your own shadow. The beam of the light should fall on your working area and not reflect on the computer screen.

Dining Room And Kitchen

2011-04-08T08:04:00.000-07:00

Whatever the style of your home - glam, minimal or family-friendly - it's worth working the lighting in your dining room (or dining area if you've got a kitchen-diner) so
that it draws attention to the table. That said, wall lights and table lamps are an added bonus because they will prove subtle sources of extra light for a special candlelit dinner.

Lighting Your Dining Area
If you are hanging pendant shades over the table, bear in mind that they need to be low enough to create soft pools of light that will conjure up an intimate atmosphere. However, the lights must be set high enough off the table so that people sitting at the table can actually see each other. Dimmer switches are a must here, so you can easily adjust the lighting to suit the mood.

Getting It Right

Dining rooms in particular benefit from lighting tricks. To make yours appear grander and taller, use floor or ceiling-recessed halogen bulbs to create vertical beams of light and, of course, hang those pendant lights as low as you dare.
To reverse the effect, grouping table lamps together on a sideboard, console or side table will create lots of little, low pools of light. A neat way to give your dining room a cosy atmosphere is to light downwards rather than upwards, making sure that no light spills onto the ceiling.

Lighting Your Kitchen

Kitchen lighting must be both practical and flexible - and will almost always be fixed. Of course, the best option is to plan your lighting when you design your kitchen, but if you've moved into a home with a badly lit kitchen, you can, with the help of a good electrician, add it later. So what are the must-haves and must-nots?

Getting It Right
Under-wall unit lighting or, failing that, downlighters that sit directly above the centre of worksurfaces, particularly in areas where you prepare food, are vital because they will give you an uninterrupted source of light (unlike a central ceiling light directed at a worktop, which you will block with your own body).

A central spotlight is a good source of ambient light. Ideally, choose one that has three, four or even five directable lights, which can be either on a track that extends the length of a longer kitchen or on a single unit in a smaller room.
Most built-in cooker hoods have a light included, but if you don't have a hood - perhaps your hob sits in a kitchen island - you will need to arrange to have downlighters or an uninterrupted spotlight installed above the hob to give you plenty of light while you cook.
Pendants are not ideal in small kitchens, as they will inevitably attract grease and dust over time, and don't generally give off enough light to make them practical. The only place they really work is in a large conversion kitchen as an extra, more decorative source of light.

Lighting Your Living Room

2011-04-08T08:02:00.000-07:00

The living room is one of the hardest-working rooms in the house and to light it effectively you'll need everything from overhead lighting (with a dimmer) for occasional use to table lamps for atmosphere.

Lighting Your Living Room
Think dramatic, whether with eye-catching central shades, table or floor lamps. One hot look is to group lights together in clusters, particularly pendants, usually in odd numbers, and to hang them low over focal pieces, such as the coffee table.

If you're decorating the room from scratch, it's a good idea to plan where your lighting points and sockets should be installed at an early stage. This will mean that the lighting will suit your major pieces of furniture and not the other way around, and you won't have to trail unsightly cables across the room. Also, consider arranging for your table and floor lamps to be wired on their own separate circuit with dimmer switches, so you'll be able to control them all from one neat place on the wall.

Getting It Right

There is no greater crime than lighting your living room with a single pendant alone, so aim to use a variety of sources to create pools or different levels of light around the room. That means a central pendant for general ambient light; uplighters, table or tall floor lamps to light up dark corners; task lighting (such as table or desk lamp) for reading by; and perhaps a selection of wall lights to show off your favourite pictures.
Providing light for practical purposes is always a priority, but you can use simple tricks to change a room's proportions, too. Fitting uplighters to the wall to bounce light onto the white ceiling will make the room seem larger and taller. Creating panels or shafts of light with downlighters at the far end of a short room will draw your eye towards it and make it seem longer, just as lighting all four corners of a small room will make it seem bigger.

In a living room, it's worth highlighting favourite pictures, books, and even plants or pieces of furniture. A simple way to show off books is to clip a small spotlight to the underside of a shelf, while pictures can be picked out with a simple spotlight, but if they're glazed you'll need to use an 'eyeball' light that swivels and can be set to a broad beam.

Even your houseplants can look quite dramatic when properly lit - the best way to do it is to put a low uplighter or floor-recessed spot right behind an impressive specimen and let the light bounce off the leaves. Similarly, your best pieces of furniture can be made into even more of a focal point by placing a striking and decorative lamp alongside them.

Hallway

2011-04-08T08:00:00.000-07:00

Good lighting is essential for a room to make an impact, but what sort of lighting is appropriate for where? Our guide will help you bring a sparkle to every room in your house.

Lighting Your Hallway
Your hall is not just that busy space where everyone fights to get to shoes and coats; it's also the room that welcomes visitors to your home. While hall lighting needs to be practical, that doesn't mean it can't be decorative, so think lantern, hanging bowl, posh pendant or chandelier.

Getting It Right

Don't hang a pendant if your ceiling is low - it will only make it appear even lower. Instead, stick to halogen spots, sunk flush with the ceiling. These bulbs mimic daylight and, when recessed, they don't attract attention to themselves. However, if yours is a period house - anything pre-1930s - or a large new-build, chances are the ceiling will be high enough to take something really show stopping.

A single chandelier can bring a touch of glamour and a sense of occasion to a hallway. They don't really provide a great deal of illumination though, so it's likely you'll have to fit other lights, too. A good way to do this is to direct a corner-fitted spotlight onto the chandelier to highlight its shape and to reflect light off its drops. Over the stairs, where visibility needs be good, halogen lights are a good choice, while wall lights are best avoided, as they only get in the way, especially in narrow hallways.

Floor-level lighting is a dramatic way to lead the eye along the hall and up the stairs. Or, you could choose gorgeous lamps for your hall table and fit them with a dimmer switch so you can adjust the amount of light they give out to create a welcoming glow on cold winter nights, or more light if you need it.

What Requirements Must I Meet?

2011-04-08T07:59:00.000-07:00

How are loft windows affected by planning rules and building regulations?

Planning Rules

Planning rules change regularly and vary from area to area, so always check with your local planning office before embarking on expensive home improvements. Generally speaking, installing roof lights will not require planning permission, unless you live in a conservation area. A dormer may require planning permission, however, either because it projects out towards rights of way, or because it intrudes on your neighbours, or because it adds space to your home (the total volume a house can be increased by is governed by planning laws).

Building Regulations

Building regulations cover many aspects of loft conversions, including windows. The big one is to do with fire safety - loft conversions must have at least one window that can be used as a means of escape (calculated by the size of the opening, distance from the bottom of the opening to the floor etc) and the escape window must be able to be reached from outside by a ladder.

Building regulations also take insulation and ventilation into consideration, which may affect your choice of window. For example, low emissivity glass will improve insulation, while trickle vents built into roof lights provide ventilation. Consult your local building control for more information before you commit.

Loft Window Options

2011-04-08T07:56:00.000-07:00

Choosing the best windows for your space is a key part of planning a good loft conversion. Most of us would prefer to maximise the natural light available in a room,
plus an attic space can get pretty warm, so ventilation is essential. Your choice will affect the look and feel of the room, as well as the cost and complexity of the project so it's crucial you get it right.

By Kerry Young

Loft Window Options

What are the various different window types that you can choose from and how do they differ?

Roof Lights

Discreet, inexpensive and easy to install, the classic roof light is ideal for most loft conversions. There are several manufacturers around, although Velux is the most well-known. Internally, they won't add any space to your room, so they may not be the best option for attics with head clearance issues, but equally, they don't protrude from a roof's exterior, making them more suitable for spots where a dormer is not acceptable or practical.

You can also pack in more roof lights, and a bank of two or four together can make for a pretty spectacular loft room, assuming you can get this past building control. As it is unlikely your window cleaner will be getting up onto the roof any time soon, some roof lights tilt in such a way that you can safely get to the exterior glass for cleaning from indoors. If your window is too high to be accessible (or you are idle in a particularly grandiose fashion), you can get roof lights that are operate electrically by remote control. These even have a sensor that closes the window when it rains and some have a special coating on the exterior of the glass to keep it clean. Many roof lights also have some kind of vent option.

Generally speaking, there are three opening styles - pivoted (either from a central point or top third), side hung (like a casement window) or top hung. The pivoted type can be space saving as you don't need to keep the area around them clear of furniture for access. Side and top hung versions give you the advantage of only opening outwards, so work where low pitched roofs are a problem, and are great for giving you a big, open view out of the window. They also make very practical means of escape windows (see Building Regulations on the next page).

Dormer Windows

As well as bringing light and ventilation, dormer windows add space to your loft and are very useful in giving you more head room. Typically, lofts have standing room only along the middle of the loft, leaving the edges for clutter and tiny furniture. As you need decent clearance around a staircase, this means that the stairs can only come up into the middle of the space, severely limiting your options. A dormer provides head clearance, which can allow for stairs at the side, or other useful features, like a shower. More than one dormer opens many windows of opportunity, but local planning controls may restrict you to a dormer at the back of the house only. Because the window part of the dormer is flat at the front, you can have a standard window installed to complement those in the rest of the house, or if space (and planning) allows, French windows.

Where dormer windows project out from the roof, they affect the look of the exterior of your property, and are more likely to cause problems with neighbours feeling overlooked. Any advantages to gaining an extra room indoors could be negated by a horrible dormer making your home look ugly from the street, so pay attention to the size and design. Flat-roofed dormers are best suited to more modern properties, are cheaper and easier to install and provide more extra space in the loft. Pitched-roof 'chocolate box' dormers often sit more comfortably, like they have always been part of the house, particularly on older properties, but come at a price and don't add so much space.

Maximise The Shine

2011-04-08T07:52:00.000-07:00

Choosing as many fabrics
or furniture with a sheen or glossy finish as possible will help keep your space bright. Interior design, THis Designs

How To Make A Roman Blind

2011-03-28T08:07:00.000-07:00

You Will Nedd

Tape measure
Scissors
Fabric
Lining fabric, plus extra to create dowel pockets
Needle and pins
Sewing machine

Thread
Tailors' chalk
Dowels cut to 3cm less than your intended blind width
Blind rings
Wooden batten the same width as the blind
Drill
Velcro Sew & Stick
Drill and drill bits
Wall plugs
Screw eyes
Lengths of Roman blind cord. (Each length should be one and a half times the length of the blind plus the width of the blind. You will know how many lengths to cut once you know how many rows of blind rings you need)
Blind acorn (The knob attached to the end of a blind pull cord)
Cleat and screws

Step One: Cut And Stitch The Fabric Sides And Bottom
Measure the window so you know how wide and long you'll need the blind to be. Add 5cm to the width and drop for hems. Cut out the blind fabric and lining fabric. With the right sides of the fabric facing and raw edges matching, pin the fabric sides and bottom together and stitch in a 2.5cm seam. Turn the blind right side out and press.

Step Two: Mark The Position Of The Dowels
Measure 5cm down from the top, and then, from this starting point, you will need to mark regular intervals down the length of the blind - these will be the positions of the dowels. These should be between 20cm and 30cm apart, finishing with a bottom section that is half the size of the rest. (For example, each interval is 20cm and the bottom interval is 10cm). Mark these intervals with tailors' chalk.

Step Three: Stitch The Dowel Casings
Cut out strips of lining fabric 8cm wide by the width of the blind. You will need one of these dowel pockets for each of the marked intervals. Right sides together, fold in half along the length, and taking 1cm seams stitch the long raw edge and one end.

Step Four: Stitch The Dowel Casings To The Blind
Turn through the pockets and press. Thread up your sewing machine with your lining-coloured thread on the machine and your blind-coloured thread on the bobbin. Pin and stitch just inside the folded edge of each pocket along the lines marked on the blind, sewing through all fabric layers.

Step Five: Stitch On The Blind Rings
Sew a blind ring to the end of each pocket 2cm from the edge of the fabric, and at regular intervals of between 20cm and 40cm across the width of the blind.

Step Six: Secure The Batten to the Window
Using a drill and screws, secure the batten in position on the window frame and stick the hook side of a strip of Velcro Sew & Stick to the front. Screw screw eyes into the underside of the batten to align with the rings on the blind, plus an extra screw eye to the side you want to pull the cords from.

Step Seven: Stitch In The Dowels
Turn down a 2.5cm hem at the top of the blind onto the wrong side, and pin and sew. Pin and stitch the loop strip of Velcro across the top of the blind. Slip the dowels into the casings and hand stitch to close the openings. Hang up the blind using the Velcro to check that it is the correct length and hangs straight.

Step Eight: Thread The Blind Cords
Remove the blind from the batten. Securely fasten the cord to each ring on the bottom of the blind. Thread the cords upwards through the rings and onto the eyelets on the batten - you might need someone else to help you! Thread the cords through all the eyelets and the extra eyelet on the side you want to secure the blind.
Thread the cords through the blind acorn, knot and trim. Screw the cleat to the wall next to the blind and use to secure the blind when it's pulled up

TIPS

Dowels sewn into pockets at regular intervals across the blind - and cord through the rings on the dowels - create the folds when the blind is pulled up.
You can buy blind making supplies and complete Roman blind kits online.

Replacement Windows: uPVC & Steel

2011-03-28T07:57:00.000-07:00

Is uPVC or steel an option for you?

uPVC Replacement Windows

For a huge number of householders, the main appeal of uPVC is the cost. For £6,000 they can replace all their rotten windows with fresh, bright plastic ones, while doing the same in wood would cost more like £18,000. As Richard Hair points out,
'For most of the market cheap and cheerful is the most popular.' uPVC units have excellent security features, top-of-the-range insulation and you never need to get up on a ladder to repaint them. Innovations in plastic technology means they are more durable, too, lasting as many as 35 years.

Environmentally, modern uPVC windows will make your home more energy efficient, yet according to the WWF, they are made from non-renewable oil, use eight times more energy to manufacture than a timber frame, generate 43% more waste than a timber frame and when incinerated release hazardous chemicals into the environment. Other negatives include the rapid ageing seen in many plastic units - with discolouration and fading that can't be reversed - plus for some buyers, uPVC is about as welcome as an avocado WC with a fluffy seat cover and an alligator down the pan.

It is harder to avoid than find providers of uPVC windows - another reason the industry has a bad name. Get a personal recommendation from a friend for a reliable company that offers good customer service and a quality product. Never allow yourself to be browbeaten into a sale by a pushy salesman - if they have to coerce you into buying, it's not exactly a reassuring sign.

Steel Replacement Windows

It's been a quiet shift but metal windows are making a return to the windows scene. Some period homes positively demand them, but steel is a funky modern choice for contemporary developments, too. Most steel windows sold in the UK are made from recycled metal and they have great natural strength, making them durable and a good burglar deterrent. Modern steel window frames are coated with a specialist film to make them virtually maintenance and rust free and the frames are generally slimmer than wood or uPVC versions, giving you more light. On the downside, they are not cheap, although no more expensive than wood, and in some cases cheaper. Installing steel windows is taking a risk - they may not be to everyone's taste - and they might look out of place on certain styles of home.

Contact the Steel Window Association for details of a steel window supplier in your area.

Replacement Windows: Wood

2011-03-28T07:55:00.000-07:00

Once you have opted to replace your windows, there is a whole new world of decision making facing you with what to put in.

Which Material Should I Choose?

What Considerations Should I Make First?
You will need to consider what windows you already have, the style of your home, your budget, environmental concerns and - if you are likely to move within the next 10 years or so - the saleability of your property. Richard Hair points out, 'The easiest houses to sell are ones where every element is in balance - so while shabby or cheap windows will let down a home with a fabulous interior, equally you will get no benefit from gorgeous hand-made wooden casements if the rest of the house doesn't match the same quality.'

So if you are hoping to sell your home, don't rely on new windows as a sure-fire winner, particularly in the lower end of the market where your choice of window is unlikely to affect saleability. Nevertheless, at the top end of the market, buyers may well be put off by unattractive or out-of-keeping windows. If your home is listed or in a conservation area, your choice will be strictly controlled by the local authorities and you would almost certainly have to replace like for like. All replacement windows in England and Wales are subject to building regulations. This is mainly to ensure that new windows are as energy efficient as possible and if your installer is not part of the FENSA self-regulation scheme, you are responsible for checking that building control approval is applied for.

Wood Replacement Windows

The most traditional material for making windows, wood has the advantage of enduring popularity - so while other materials are more susceptible to the vagaries of taste and fashion, wood has an ageless and universal appeal. Good-quality, well-made wooden windows are also physically durable, and with the right treatment, should last generations. Generally speaking, they are more likely to be what was originally in the house and except for in very niche properties, you can be confident that wooden windows will look sympathetic. By getting your windows made by a joiner, you can be sure of a design that best reflects the original style, too.

Environmentally, wood is preferable to uPVC in many ways because it comes from a natural (and hopefully sustainable) source, and even when it's replaced it's recyclable and/or biodegradable. Which is all well and good until you come to the major downside of wood - the price. Wooden windows can cost as much as three times the price of their plastic counterparts, which may be bearable for properties in the top end of the market, but often an unreasonable price to pay for more modest homes. You may find less expensive wood options, but bear in mind that cheaper versions are often of inferior materials and construction, which will require yearly repainting and may last as few as eight years.

Maintenance is another selling point for plastic over wood, as wood is only durable as long as it is repainted, while plastic requires no looking after. Nevertheless, Jim Allen of All Windows Wood UK stresses, 'Good, well-prepared wood treated with specialised finishes shouldn't need repainting for another seven to eight years. It's a misconception that plastic costs less to maintain, as you can't do anything about a plastic window that's gone yellow, faded or has become brittle. If you come to sell then wood windows can be made to look like new again with a coat of paint, where plastic will be looking tired and needing replacement.'

A local joiner should be able to make you bespoke timber windows, or there are many national companies that can provide wooden versions, even some of the names, such as Everest, that are traditionally associated with uPVC.

Do I Need New Windows?

2011-03-28T07:53:00.000-07:00

Spanking new windows can give your home an instant makeover, improving its kerb appeal and making it warmer and draught-free indoors, too. But it is a costly investment and one you don't want to get wrong. Our guide takes you through the dos and don'ts of new windows, from working out if you need them in the first place, to what material to go for.

By Kerry Young

Do I Need New Windows?

It's an expensive job, but there are many reasons why you may want to replace the windows in your home. Swapping ugly windows installed by a former occupant for sympathetic new ones can transform a 'blah' home into a 'wow' one, and if you don't have it already, double glazing will cut your energy bills, reduce traffic noise, improve security and boost your home's green rating.

Or maybe your existing windows have simply seen better days, with sticking sashes, draughty casements or rotten frames. Obviously it is cheaper and more environmentally friendly to fix up an existing window than replace it, plus if you live in a period property, original windows are a huge asset, so deciding to replace the windows is a big step. Whichever direction you go in - repair or replace - doing nothing is not an option if they are falling apart.

Windows that are salvageable will soon become only fit for the tip if you don't fix them soon, and if you wanted to sell, rotting windows won't endear the property to potential buyers. According to Richard Hair of the NAEA (National Association of Estate Agents), on the average home, even cheap new uPVC windows are a more attractive prospect to buyers than windows that are in need of attention (although you may not necessarily recoup the cost of installing them).

Original Wood Windows

Original wooden windows still do the job in buildings that are hundreds of years old, so with the right care they should last a lifetime. They need to be regularly painted or weather-treated to protect the wood from the elements - once this has been allowed to slide, rot can set in pretty quickly, so if your windows have flaking paint or varnish, do something about it sharpish.

The type of wood used in older properties (more than a century old) tends to be of a better quality than modern wood windows and so ironically is more likely to be worth repairing than a much newer window. A bad sign is if recently applied paint starts to blister - this is an indication that the wood underneath is wet and rotten and may be past repair. A professional will be able to assess the level of rot using a damp meter (or a strategically gouged screwdriver!) and let you know if the window can be repaired. Call on the services of a local joiner to assess the state of the frames and sort them for you.

Sash Windows

Original sash windows are found in many Victorian and Edwardian homes, and are an attractive feature much beloved of buyers. However, their mechanism is prone to problems and unloved windows with broken cords, stuck top sashes and improperly weighted sashes can make the windows unusable. Nonetheless, they are usually fairly straightforward to fix - even for a DIYer - and there are a rash of sash window specialists who will make yours fully functioning for you - check out your Yellow Pages. They can also draught-proof the original window, so no more icy draughts.

uPVC Windows

While uPVC windows are hardwearing, they do have a finite lifespan - uPVC that is faded, yellowed or become brittle, and units that mist and fog up are pretty much unrepairable. If you have uPVC windows that are reaching retirement age (this depends on the quality of the product but the most optimistic estimate is up to 35 years), then replacing them is your only option. Many people of course just hate uPVC and choose to replace them with wood, but this is a financial gamble if you are hoping to make the house more saleable.

Steel Windows

Metal windows have not been feeling much love for many years - they can be a bit cold and damp and have a vague association with grim post-war council housing - but in some properties, such as Art Deco style buildings for example, or modern loft apartments, they look fabulous and completely appropriate. The old Crittal-style steel windows are in danger of extinction as so many have been replaced over the years, but these types of window are actually very hardwearing and can be fixed up to improve their performance. You will need to get in touch with a specialist company though - contact the Steel Window Association. Old-style metal windows are single-glazed, so you will need to replace them if you want double glazing.

Hard Flooring Guide: Porcelain

2011-03-28T07:50:00.000-07:00

Durable and good looking, what more do you need to know about porcelain floor tiles?

Why We Love It

Ideal for conservatories, kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, porcelain is a man-made stone that's exceptionally durable and designed for heavy use. It comes in larger sized tiles, which is ideal for creating a contemporary look.

Porcelain tiles keep their colour better than ceramic tiles - and it can also be used outside.

What Are The Downsides?
Unless the porcelain you are buying has its colour throughout the body of the tile, you might have a problem if the tile chips or cracks - because the colour beneath the top layer of the tile will show, and it's unlikely to be the same colour as the top of the tile.

Hard Flooring Guide: Concrete

2011-03-28T07:48:00.000-07:00

Concrete flooring gives your space a contemporary feel - but it's a practical choice, too. Here's a guide to what you need to know.

Why We Love It

Hardwearing and ideal for creating a cutting edge, industrial feel.

Your Choices

Polished concrete tiles come in every size, whereas a poured concrete floor is installed whole. Both types come in a range of colours and need to be fitted by a professional. Concrete is suitable for underfloor heating.

Looks To Go For

Large, 900x900mm square tiles in natural tones are very popular and can be laid by two people - any bigger than this and you'll need several people to carry them because they're so heavy, which will bump up costs. For a seamless, glossy finish, poured concrete sets in situ and has no joins.

Where To Use It

Kitchens, bathrooms and living areas all look fabulously contemporary with concrete floors. Use isn't restricted to downstairs rooms as it can be laid as thinly as 5mm.

Concrete is also frost-proof and can therefore run right out into the garden.

How To Look After It

Although porous, it's sealed on installation, making it very low-maintenance and resistant to spills and stains.

What It Costs

You're unlikely to get much change from £100 per sq m.

How To Mix Paint

2011-03-28T07:35:00.000-07:00

Create the perfect colour and use up left-over paint with this step-by-step guide. You'll get the best results by using the same finish, and the same brand of paint. If you're going to be painting a large area, it's best to get your paint mixed professionally.

By Kirstie Allsopp

You Will Need

Different paint colours of the same finish (in other words, all emulsion, all satin or all gloss)
White paint of same finish (optional)

Step One: Experiment To Understand Mixing

Start by experimenting with small quantities of paint, bearing colour theory in mind. For example, primary colours are red, yellow and blue. Mix two of these and you'll create a secondary colour: orange, green or purple.

Bear in mind that you can also mix a primary colour with a secondary shade that does contain the primary, for example lime green is yellow added to a mix of yellow and blue.

Step Two: Keep Track Of What You Add

To lighten the colour you come up with, add white; add black and get a darker version of your original colour.

Keep track of the ratio and quantities of paint you’ve used to create your preferred shade.

Step Three: Test The Paint

If you've come to a colour you're happy with, try it out on a sheet of paper or an inconspicuous area of whatever you're painting.

Let it dry before making a judgement. Dry paint reflects light differently, so the colour you love in a wet mixture won't be the same when it's dry.

Step Four: Recreate The Colour

Recreate the colour you like, this time in greater quantity, making up enough to complete the whole job.

Bear in mind that it might be impossible for you to mix exactly the right shade again, so if you don't think you'll have enough paint to cover the area, play safe and get your paint mixed professionally.

Innovative & Eco-Friendly Paints

2011-03-28T07:23:00.000-07:00

Innovative & Eco-Friendly Paints
In recent times, a small number of revolutionary paints have emerged, offering some highly useful properties, such as odour-removal - ideal for an open-plan kitchen or ensuite bathroom, for example.

Odour-Removing Paint

StoClimasan Color, as featured on Grand Designs Bristol is the world's first interior paint that can remove bad smells using artificial light. When exposed to visible light, whether it actually is natural or indoor lighting, StoClimasan Color breaks down airborne substances and odours, and as long as the light remains present, the air within the room is completely de-odourised.
And not only does StoClimason have fantastic covering power, but it is also completely free of VOCs. Remember, the more light available, and the larger the painted surface area, the stronger the effect.

Self-Cleaning Paint

From the same episode of Grand Designs , we see the enormous potential of StoLotusan Color - a pioneering exterior paint, useful in any environment - it self-cleans! Using Lotus-Effect® - a technology developed by Sto - dirt simply washes off in the rain, keeping the façade clean without any labour. So how does this really work? It's all due to the micro structure of the paint, where water just cannot maintain surface contact and literally rolls off the surface. As this happens, loose dirt particles are gathered leaving exterior walls spotless. And StoLotusan Color is a water-based paint, free of solvents, plasticisers and VOC's.
For further information on both products, click here to go straight to the Stoshop website.

Ecological Paints

It's increasingly easy nowadays to source eco products, and ecologically sound paints, with an array of odourless paints, free of harmful solvents and chemicals on the market, are no exception. Here are several UK companies offering a safer and environmentally friendly alternative to traditional paints.

Ecos Organic Paints manufacture the world's best-selling organic paints - all VOC free - in 108 co-ordinated colours.
Nutshell Natural Paints use only naturally sourced raw materials including oils, herbs and minerals.
earthBorn were launched in 2001, and their high-performing, eco-friendly products are now available from more than 120 stockists around the UK.
Auro UK - fully certified as a carbon neutral company - are manufacturers of natural paints and wood finishes, good for you and for the environment.

Room By Room: Which Paint To Use & What To Buy

2011-03-28T07:20:00.000-07:00

Room By Room Guide

For basic walls and ceilings, water-based paints are a popular choice. They are easy to apply, have very low fume levels and are fast-drying, plus can usually be re-coated reasonably quickly and they clean up in water. But when it comes to ceilings, using
a non-drip paint can save time and hassle.
Silk emulsion has a shiny finish, reflects the light and can be washed - so useful for areas such as halls and staircases. Gloss and semi-gloss finish paints provide a resilient and robust surface for busy areas of the home, such as children's bed and playrooms where regular cleaning is expected.
For kitchens, bathrooms and laundry or utility rooms, a special emulsion formula that is durable and mildew-resistant is ideal for these areas where high humidity is likely. Low-sheen paint finishes are frequently used for more formal, quieter areas like the dining room, adult bedrooms and front rooms, and where the light matt effect offers a more subdued setting.
As with many aspects of DIY, preparation is central to a good end result in any room. It is crucial to clean and remove all dirt and loose material from surfaces to be decorated, and also repair any faults and imperfections before getting out the paint brushes. Although this part of the work can be tiring and time consuming, it is essential to the perfect outcome, so take case to wash down, sand and dust.

What To Pay
Paint prices vary greatly, dependant on size, brand, finish, components and even the colour. Generally - and happily - the price difference between safe, solvent-free paints and standard traditional varieties is very little. However, primers, undercoat and specialist varieties tend to be more expensive than standard emulsions and glosses. In fact, a five litre pot of emulsion can be picked up for as little as £8.99 these days. But, as with all purchases for the home, sometimes spending a little extra for a superior product can pay dividends in the quality and lifespan of the end result.

Best Buys

With a heritage dating back to 1773, The Little Greene Paint Company specialises in paints of the highest quality, expertly designed to suit both contemporary and classical homes.
Farrow & Ball can supply authentic historic and contemporary colours in finishes for surfaces indoors and out.
Dulux offer inspiration and advice, useful visualisation alongside a fantastic range of colours and varieties of paint.
The Real Paint & Varnish Company manufactures protective, durable and beautiful finishes of the past, using traditional ingredients and production methods.
Centurion Paints offer a range of quality paint finishes developed by experts with years of experience in formulating specialist surface coatings.

Useful Links

The Paint Quality Institute was founded in 1989 in the USA to educate people on the advantages of using high quality interior and exterior paints and coatings, but has now expanded worldwide.
The Painting and Decorating Association (PDA) represents thousands of painters and decorators across the UK, who are fully qualified and insured.
Community RePaint is a UK-wide network of paint re-use schemes, accepting leftover paints from householders as well as end-of-line paints from the trade, for redistribution to charities, community and voluntary groups.
The British Coatings Federation has a great product finder on their extensive website if you are looking for a supplier of a particular type of paint, coating or wallcovering.

Specialist Paints For Tricky Surfaces

2011-03-28T07:06:00.000-07:00

Continuing from Part One, this guide looks at helping you try and solve those design dilemmas. So hopefully that decision on the type of paint you want to decorate your rooms with will come a little easier.

Specialist Paints For Tricky Surfaces

Need to paint a radiator? Or perhaps an iron bedstead? Maybe the floor in your living room would look fabulous with painted boards? Whatever you need, we've found a paint that's perfect.

Floor Paint

Various floor paints are available for different types of floors such as concrete, wood and vinyl, as well as specific paints for garage floors and also doorstep paint. These paints are extra durable to cope with the daily wear and tear.

Radiator Paint

For use on central heating pipes and radiators, these are tough and heat resistant, so will stand up to the high temperatures without discolouring as certain paints many do. Some ordinary gloss white paints turn yellow on hot radiators; but radiator paints are specially formulated, so will not only resist yellowing, but also prevent any rust.

Fire-Retardant Paint

These special paints contain an additive to provide a fire-resistant quality; they do not resist fire completely, but have a greater flame resistance than ordinary paint and will reduce their spread.

Bituminous Paint

This is the ideal paint for iron railings and for external gutters, pipes and tanks. It's an economical coating - providing protection against moisture and corrosive atmospheres on both steelwork and timber - it's usually quite thick and black. It's perfect for all areas where high water resistance is needed and appearance doesn't matter. Bituminous products are the best choice for 'inside' gutter paint, although the outside can be painted with a primer and a normal gloss.

Heat-Resistant Paint

These paints offer a coating suitable for use on any surface with a high temperature. Typical items for these formulas include boilers, chimneys, gas fires, wood burning stoves and barbecues.

Period Paints

Period paints can offer traditional and historic colours, giving a chalky matt finish ideal for creating an authentic period feel. They can be found on the market in emulsion paint for walls and eggshell for wood and metal. Period formulas are often viewed as a good paint for furniture.

Decorative Effects Paint

Creating paint effects and using special metallic paint is easier than ever before with easy-to-use, water-based paints available today. These can create texture and style in any home.

Other Specialist Paints

Many surfaces require specific specialists paint for the job where other paints will not do. These surfaces include paint for plastic, tiles, melamine, PVC and blackboards as well as special finishes such as matt black, anti-burglar paint, child safe paint, and stain blocks
There are also wide ranges of exterior grade paints available, which can cope with all weather. Limewash, which is made from slaked lime and water, is excellent for porous surfaces. A good paint for brickwork and render, and gives a chalky finish. It can be used as paint for a breeze block wall.
Microporous Paint is a sensible choice for new untreated exterior timber, because it keeps out moisture, but allows wood to breathe. And finally top quality Multi-Surface Paint can be used on everything - as a paint for plastic, or even plaster and masonry.

How To Stencil

2011-03-28T06:48:00.000-07:00

Cheaper than wallpaper - and more fun, too - stencilling lets you create your own designs for an individual look. If you're struggling to stencil, this step by step guide by Naomi Cleaver will set you straight.

You Will Need

Water-based acrylic paint in white and a colour
Standard paint roller and tray
Small paint roller
Metal measuring tape
Soft pencil
Spirit level
Stencil
Stencil mount or low tack masking tape

Step One: Preparation

Prepare the wall and paint it, using a roller and leave to dry.

Step Two: Mark Out The Design

Work out how many times you'll need to repeat the stencil to cover the wall and adjust the positioning so you will get a neat finish at the corners. Mark the position of the stencil with the pencil on the wall, using the measuring tape and spirit level for accuracy.

Step Three: Stencil Mount

Spray stencil mount on the back of the stencil or use low tack masking tape to secure it to the wall. Decant a small quantity of the coloured paint into a saucer or the lid of the paint pot. Apply the paint using the small paint roller. Stencil small or intricate designs using a stencil brush instead of a roller.

Step Four: Remove The Stencil

Remove the stencil immediately and leave paint to dry. Repeat the process across the wall, following the marks on the stencil each time, to make sure the pattern matches exactly.

How To Measure For Blinds

2011-03-28T06:46:00.000-07:00

Before you start making a blind, you need to get the measurements absolutely right. Here's how.

You Will Need

Stepladder
Metal measuring tape
Pencil and paper

Step One: Measure The Recess
If the window has a deep recess, you can fit the blind inside for a neat finish. Measure the width of the recess in three places using the metal measuring tape, and note the smallest measurement. Measure the length in the same way (taking three measurements), from the top of the recess to the sill.

Step Two: Without A Recess - Measure The Width
For a window without a recess, measure the width of the window and allow an extra 5cm either side, to help block out light. Alternatively, if the window has wide mouldings, you can measure so that the blind will be flush with the edges.

Step Three: Fix The Brackets
The brackets or track supporting the blind can be fixed to the wall or to a wooden batten, ideally fixed 4 to 5cm above the window, or screwed to the window frame if it’s wide and flat enough. Measure the length from the proposed fixings to the sill.

Step Four: Buy A Ready Made Kit
Buy a ready made roller blind (or a roller blind kit) the size you need or wider as it can be cut to fit. Check that the length of the blind will be longer than your window measurements. See tips below for other types of blind.

TIPS

Measure twice to avoid a costly mistake.
Roman blinds (which fold into flat pleats), Austrian blinds (ruched), and London blinds (soft pleats) can all be fitted inside or outside the window recess, and are attached to specialist tracks or to a batten.
Roman and London blinds should be bought or made to the exact size needed if they are to be fitted within a recess, while Austrian blinds can be gathered at the top to adjust the width.

How To Clean Paintbrushes

2011-03-28T06:44:00.000-07:00

You Will Need

White spirit or paint-cleaning solution (for oil based or gloss paints)
Washing-up liquid
Old glass jar
Old cloth

Elastic band
Rubber gloves

Step One: Remove Excess Paint
For water and other non-oil-based coatings, you should be able to clean the brush with warm water and washing up liquid. Brush the bristles against the lip of the paint can to draw out as much of the paint as possible, then use an old cloth to remove the excess. This will reduce the amount of paint that has to be washed into the drain.

Step Two: Clean The Bristles
Wear rubber gloves and stir the brush around in a strong solution of washing-up liquid (emulsion paints) or white spirit (oil-based or gloss paints). An old jar is a handy container to clean brushes. Don't use plastic containers as the white spirit or paint cleaning solution may react with the plastic and cause it to leak. Use at least three changes of water or white spirit and fan out the bristles to work the solution into the base of the bristles.

Step Three: Rinse And Store
Rinse out the brush under the tap until the water runs clear. Dry the bristles on an old cloth and slip an elastic band over the brush bristles to keep them together. To protect the bristles, stand the brushes bristles-up in an old jam jar.

TIPS

If your painting job will take more than a day, stretch some plastic wrap over the paint tray to stop paint drying out overnight. You can also use the wrap around paintbrushes and rollers instead of cleaning them for the next day.

DIY stores sell small plastic rings that are pushed over paint rollers and pulled up and down to remove the excess paint. Another option is an adaptor that fits in the end of the roller and is fitted into a power drill. Spin the roller in a bucket and centrifugal force pushes all the paint off.

How To Measure For Curtains

2011-03-28T06:27:00.000-07:00

Found the perfect fabric for your new curtains but not sure how to measure for them? This step-by-step guide should make it easy. Check out the window size, tot up the results and you'll be well on your way to creating your own fabulous curtains.
You Will Need

Stepladder
Metal measuring tape
Pencil
Paper
Calculator

Step One: Choose Your Fabric And Heading Tape

Decide on the fabric first as you need to know its width to do the sums on how much to buy. You will also need to decide on your heading tape as that affects the width of the curtains. Choose standard heading tape for shallow pleats, or pencil pleat tape for neat rows of deep pleats. Remember that heavier fabrics will need less gathers to look full.

Step Two: Calculate The Number Of Fabric Widths

First, you need to calculate how many widths of fabric you will need to cover the width of your window. Measure the length of the track or pole you’re using and multiply this figure by 1.5 if you plan to use standard heading tape, or by 2.5 for pencil pleat tape. Now add on 20cm overall for side hems. Divide this figure by the width of your fabric. Round up the result to the next whole number. For example, if your pole measures 200cm, multiply by 1.5 (for standard heading tape), and add on 20cm for hems, which equals 320cm. If your fabric measures 122cm wide, the sum is 320 divided by 122, which equals 2.6. The next whole number is 3. So, three widths of fabric, when gathered, will cover the window, and each curtain will be made of 1½ widths of fabric.

Step Three: Calculate The Cutting Length
Decide on the length of your finished curtains. If you're using a curtain pole, start measuring from the base of the rings from which the curtains will hang. If you're using a curtain track, measure from 1cm above the top edge, so the curtain heading will hide the track. For floor-length curtains, allow 1.5cm clearance between the lower edge of the curtain and the floor. If you want your curtains to touch the floor, add 5cm to your measurement and if you want your curtains to puddle on the floor, add 51cm. Finally, add on 3cm for the turning at the top and 12cm for the hem. This measurement is the cutting length for your fabric.

Step Four: Calculating How Much Curtain Fabric To Buy
If your curtains will be made from a plain-coloured fabric or a fabric with a small pattern that won't require pattern matching, simply multiply the number of fabric widths by the cutting length and add 10cm per curtain. This is the amount of fabric you need to buy.
If you've chosen a fabric with an obvious design, you will need to buy extra fabric because each length must be cut at the same point in the design so the pattern will match across both curtains when they are drawn. To calculate how much patterned fabric to buy, take the cutting length and add the length of the pattern repeat (this should be stated on the fabric label in the shop). Multiply this new cutting length measurement and multiply by your number of fabric widths and add 10cm per curtain. This is the amount of patterned fabric you need to buy.

Step Five: Calculating How Much Lining Fabric To Buy

You will need the same amount of lining fabric as curtain fabric, minus any extra length added for pattern repeats.

Step Six: Calculating How Much Heading Tape To Buy

Take the measurement of your curtain pole or track and add 10cm to calculate how much curtain heading tape to buy.

How To Make Unlined Curtains

2011-03-28T06:24:00.000-07:00

Save money and get a unique look by sewing your own curtains - go on, you know you can do it. Hem the sides and bottom, stitch heading tape to the top, and you're done. This step-by-step guide shows you just how easy it is.
You Will Need

Fabric and curtain heading tape
Metal measuring tape
Good dressmaking scissors
Sewing machine
Thread
Needle
Pins
Pencil

Step One: Measuring & Cutting The Curtain
Measure all the curtain lengths, marking them with pins or a pencil. On patterned fabric, choose one main point in the design and mark off each length starting at this point. Cut out all the lengths.

Step Two: Joining Widths

If you need to join widths to make up each curtain, pin the fabric pieces together along the selvages (the finished edges of the fabric that won’t unravel) with right sides facing. If you have an odd number of fabric widths, cut the 'odd' piece in half lengthways and pin one half to the outside edge of each curtain. Stitch the pieces together, taking in a 2.5cm seam. Press the seams open and snip into the selvages at 45cm intervals so the seams won't pucker when the curtains are washed.

Step Three: Hem The Sides

Turn under a double 2.5cm hem at the curtain sides and press. Use a large hem stitch to sew the curtain sides by hand.

Step Four: Stitch On The Heading Tape

Turn under 3cm at the curtain top and press. Knot the cords at one end of the heading tape. Pin the tape close to the top of the curtain, fold under the short edges of the tape and hiding the raw fabric edges. Machine stitch along all the edges of the tape. Draw up the tape to fit the window and knot the cords.

Step Five: Hem The Length

Temporarily hang the curtain by a few hooks and mark off the desired length with pins. Take down the curtain and turn up a double hem to the marked length and press. To make a neat finish at the lower corners, open out the folds at the sides (unpick the side hem you've already sewn), and the hem. Fold in the corner at an angle, then carefully refold all the turnings to make a 'mitred corner'. Hand-sew the hem and the mitre (you can use the machine if you’re in a hurry).

How To Shorten And Hem Curtains

2011-03-28T06:20:00.000-07:00

You don’t need to go to the expense of buying new curtains when you move - save money by just shortening the ones you already own. Or, look for secondhand curtains in good condition, and shorten these to suit your windows.

By Kirstie Allsopp

You Will Need
Tape measure
Pins
Scissors
An iron
Needle and thread

Step One: Measure The Curtains

With your curtains hung in place, measure the required drop. Mark the position where the curtains should fall using pins. Always double check your measurements before cutting and sewing.

Step Two: Separate The Curtain From The Lining

Take the curtains down and unpick the stitches that join the lining to the curtain, going high enough to allow you to work on the main curtain fabric and lining separately. Make a note of the measurements of the existing curtain and lining hems, so you can make the new hems the same size. These will often be double hems.

Step Three: Stitch The New Hems

Unpick the curtain hem, and trim excess fabric, allowing enough fabric to create a double hem for the new hem if necessary. Turn it up to the marked length. Check that it is level using your tape measure, then press. Slip stitch in place. Repeat with the lining hem. Slip stitch the curtain and lining to rejoin them.

Step Four: Alternative Method

Sometimes it can be easier and quicker to shorten a pair of curtains from the top of the curtain. Remove heading tape, cut to the required new length and finish by turning in the cut edges and slipstitching closed. Then replace the old heading tape or if the heading tape has already been pulled, you may prefer to add new heading tape.

How To Make Floating Alcove Shelves

2011-03-28T05:48:00.000-07:00

You Will Need
Timber for shelves and shelf fronts
Thin MDF or match board for shelf undersides
2 x 1in (50 x 25mm) timber for battens
Pencil

Steel tape measure
Spirit level
Pipe and cable detector
Saw
Hammer drill
Masonry and wood drill bits and countersink bit
Screws
Wall plugs
Screwdriver
Wood adhesive
Hammer
Panel pins
Lost-head nails
Wood filler
Wood primer (or primer/undercoat)
Paint

Step One: Decide On Spacing
Using the tape measure, pencil and spirit level, mark out the position for the shelves on the back wall of the alcove, remembering to allow sufficient clearance space between each shelf. Check for obstructions within the wall where you intend to drill using the pipe and cable detector.

Step Two: Cut & Check The Battens
Use a saw to cut the battens to fit the back wall. Drill screw clearance holes through the batten, then put it on the wall, and push a screw through the holes to mark the position on the wall. Remove the batten.

Step Three: Drill Holes In The Wall
Using the masonry bit, drill holes, plug with wall plugs and screw the batten in place. These instructions are for masonry walls. If you have stud-partition walls the brackets must be screwed to the studs.

Step Four: Mark The Position On The Side Walls
Mark out the position for battens for the side walls, checking with the spirit level, then cut battens to fit and fix in the same way. If the shelves are to be flush with the alcove front, cut the side battens short of this edge by 25mm (or the same thickness as the timber shelf fronts).

Step Five: Cut & Fix The Shelf
Saw the timber to size to make the shelf tops. You may have to shape the sides and back for a good fit. Apply wood adhesive to the top set of battens, and fix the shelf in place with wood screws at each end, countersinking the screw heads for a neat finish.

Step Six: Fit A Central Batten
Use wood adhesive and screws to fit a central batten to the underside of each shelf, from front to back, screwing it down from the top and countersinking the screws. (For extra strength or on long shelves, the central batten can be screwed to the rear batten before this is fixed in place.)

Step Seven: Fit The Shelf Undersides & Fronts
Cut the MDF or match board to fit the underside of the shelves. Glue to the battens and fix by nailing in panel pins. Cut the fronts for the shelves from timber, and nail to the battens using lost head nails. Sand the shelves, and fill any gaps with wood filler, then prime and paint to finish.

How To Remove Paint From Woodwork

2011-03-28T05:44:00.000-07:00

Found a piece of furniture at a reclamation yard and want to find gorgeous wood beneath the layers of paint? Get stripping, and reveal all with our step-by-step guide to removing paint from woodwork. Use this guide for stripping paint from other areas around the house, too.

There are three ways to remove paint from woodwork: sanding (messy, but effective on lightly painted surfaces), an electric hot air gun (quick over large areas), or chemical stripper (very messy but a good option if you are trying to budge awkward to reach or stubborn paint). You will need to wear safety goggles and a mask, plus rubber gloves if you’re using chemical strippers.

By Kirstie Allsopp

You Will Need

Sandpaper and sanding block or mechanical sander, or electric hot air gun, or chemical stripper
Safety goggles
Mask
Rubber gloves
Stripping knife
Wire wool
Dust sheets

Step One: Check For Lead In Paint
Before you start stripping, be aware of the need to take precautions with lead-containing paint. Most paint before 1960 contained lead, so if you are removing paint from doors, banisters, windows and so on in an older home, or if you have a piece of old furniture,

Step Two: Begin Sanding
Hand sanding is suitable for small flat areas that don’t have much paint on them. Use a sanding block to make the job easier and sanding more even. For larger areas, you could hire a mechanical sander from HSS.

Step Three: Use An Electric Hot Air Gun
An electric hot air gun is a useful tool for removing paint from wood. You will need to keep the gun moving to avoid scorching the surface. Use a stripping knife to remove the paint as it lifts. Use the gun carefully to avoid heating anything other than the paint you’re removing.

Step Four: Ventilate Well
Chemical strippers, available from DIY stores, are good for intricately carved wood. You will need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions as these vary. Make sure you keep the area you’re working in well ventilated. Protect the floor with dust sheets or thick newspaper.
To get a chemical stripper into nooks and crannies on intricate woodwork, use wire wool. Also, check the manufacturer’s instructions to see if you need to neutralise the stripped woodwork.

How To Wallpaper Around Corners

2011-03-28T05:38:00.000-07:00

Wallpapering on a flat surface is one thing. Taking the wallpaper around the corner is another. So, to make sure you get a neat finish around internal corners when you’re wallpapering, read these handy instructions.

You Will Need
Wallpaper
Metal tape measure
Wallpaper scissors
Wallpaper paste
Plumb line
Pencil
Seam roller

Step One: Plan To Start Far Before The Corner
It's important not to finish a length of wallpaper in a corner, as any imperfections in the corner will become apparent. Likewise, running a large strip of wallpaper around a corner means it's hard to avoid creases. To avoid these problems you should plan to run a small amount of wallpaper around the corner onto the next wall.

Step Two: Measure The Amount Of Wallpaper Needed
Measure from the edge of the last piece of wallpaper you have hung to the corner. Measure at the top, middle and bottom, and take the largest of these measurements and add 12mm.

Step Three: Match The Pattern
Make sure you match patterns as closely as possible for patterned wallpaper designs. Cut your next strip of wallpaper to this measurement, and keep the offcut. Hang the cut strip of wallpaper, butting it up to the previous strip. Make sure you smooth it around the corner, as well as on both walls, and trim as usual.

Step Four: Hang The Wallpaper
Hang a plumb line on the new wall at the distance of the width of the offcut of paper from the corner, and mark the vertical with the pencil. Use the marks to hang the offcut vertically. Hang this so it reaches the corner. It will overlap the wallpaper that went around the corner, producing a neat finish.

How To Wallpaper

2011-03-28T05:27:00.000-07:00

YOU WILL NEED :
Wallpaper
Scissors
Pencil
Plumb line

Batten or long ruler
Wallpaper paste
Paintbrush
Smoothing brush or roller
Sponge

Step One: Measuring And Cutting The Wallpaper
Cut enough lengths of paper to complete the first wall, allowing 100mm for trimming, or more if your wallpaper has a large pattern or design. Push a length of the paper into a top corner of the room and mark the wall about 25mm in from the free edge. Hold the plumb line at ceiling height so that it passes through the pencil mark and make several more marks along the line. Join the marks up with the ruler or batten.

Step Two: Pasting
Paste the first sheet by spreading some paste into the centre and working the brush in a herringbone pattern to spread the paste to the edges. A good technique is to hold the paper against the table edge furthest from you and paste up to this edge first. Then pull the paper towards you and paste the nearest edge.

Step Three: Folding
Fold the pasted sides inwards so that no paste touches the face side. Hang the folded paper over a broom between two chairs. Apply paste to two or three more pieces of paper to allow the paper to absorb some of the paste and become more pliable before you hang it.

Step Four: Hanging The First Piece
Lightly press the top of the first length against the wall, with a 50mm overlap at the top. Slide the edge up to the vertical line and use a smoothing brush to get rid of air bubbles. Again, use herringbone strokes from the centre. Trim the top and bottom of the length by creasing the paper into the skirting and ceiling/picture rail with the back of the scissors. Cut along the crease.

Step Five: Cleaning Off The Excess Paste
Hang the next length in the same way, butting the edge neatly against the first piece. Make sure the edges are firmly glued down by running a seam roller along the joint. Always sponge off any excess paste with a clean wet sponge or it will dry as a shiny patch.

Step Six: Finishing
Repeat the process for each length, ensuring that the edges meet exactly and the pattern is matched. At internal corners, measure from the last full width roll to the corner and add 15mm. Paste this cut length to the wall and press the small overlap piece around the corner. Overlap this piece with the next length of paper, using a plumb line for accuracy. For external corners, use the same technique but allow about 25mm overlap. Hang the first length on the new wall so that it is about 12mm from the corner.

TIPS

Turn off the electrical supply before papering around sockets and switches. Remove the cover plates and hang the paper as normal, trim to size and then re-fit the plates.

Be sure that all the rolls you buy have the same batch number as colour may vary slightly from batch to batch.

Use bulldog clips to hold the paper on the table as you paste it.

Make a small cross with a craft knife in the centre of any air bubbles under the dry paper. Brush some paste on the underside of the flaps and press down with a roller.

Don't mix old and new paste. Mix up enough to cover one wall at a time.

Put half a matchstick into the ends of wall plugs so that you can see where to replace hooks and screws.

Find A Show Off Piece

2011-03-28T05:25:00.000-07:00

If you want to keep your approach to pattern subtle, why not just pick a stand-out piece?

Find A Show Off Piece

Deeply sophisticated, unusual silhouette designs will look absolutely beautiful in every room. But don't stop with the shape, look for something with pattern - or a piece that you can upholster to suit your scheme.

How To Do It

In a small room, or a room where pattern isn't always appropriate in great quantities - such as a bathroom - you need no more than one or two highly patterned pieces, set against a dramatic background - to have a big impact.

If you are going to try this, upholstery is a good place to begin - or failing that, a piece of highly decorated, painted furniture. Pick a piece that looks like it belongs and fits in the room or its eye-catching pattern will just help it feel more out of place than it otherwise would.

Then, pick a colour that suits the room, but doesn't necessarily match with everything else. The more dramatic the print, the better, and, if you can work texture into the print, too, it will be all the more effective. Painting the walls behind in a colour that sets off the show-stopping piece will only add to its impact, but don't be afraid to choose something unexpected - just bear in mind that a light-coloured piece of furniture will be set off by a dark background colour and vice versa.

Lastly, try to ensure that the shape of your stand-out piece, is just as noticeable as the pattern - curves are ideal, because they're more inviting to the eye than straight lines.

Working With Retro Prints

2011-03-28T05:18:00.000-07:00

Last but not least we check out bold and retro prints...
Working With Retro

You've got to be brave to go totally retro, but if you are, keep pattern in the rest of the room minimal and stick to touchable textures, such as rich woods and cool ceramics.

Working With Retro Prints

The retro look - patterns and prints that are reminiscent of the fifties right through to the seventies - is here to stay. But do you need to stick to the look rigorously to make it work?

The answer, of course, is 'no'. There's a vast choice of furniture and accessories that successfully echo the retro look but are available in the high street now. However, that doesn't mean the look is easy to achieve first time. And it also doesn't mean that you should doggedly furnish your home in seventies-style stuff, unless you want it to look like a TV sitcom set, that is.

So where to start? The question is to decide how far you want to go with the look. Putting a wallpaper like this graphic print up on the wall will almost certainly dictate that the rest of your scheme should be pretty plain - although that doesn't mean you shouldn't add the odd splash of pattern in upholstery or accessories, just to keep the room interesting.

If you do, keep the colour scheme simple. You needn't stick to seventies favourites, for example - oranges, browns and avocados - but you should stick to similar tones or the colour scheme will fight with the patterns for attention.

It also pays to look for accessories which, while not necessarily brightly coloured, pick out one of the colours within the wallpaper (the most subtle of the colours, in this case, black). And, ideally, they should be curvaceous in their lines, echoing the shapes within the patterns on the wallpaper back at them.

Go For Understated Elegance

2011-03-28T05:13:00.000-07:00

How do you introduce pattern without making it an overt statement? Find out here
Go For Understated Elegance

Looking for a more subtle approach? Try shimmering neutrals and tactile fabrics - but keep your colour scheme simple and toned down.

How To Do It

A traditional, played down scheme doesn't have to be free of pattern - you can go just as crazy as you would with a much bolder scheme, but the key is to choose patterns that show off because of their sheen or texture, not because of their colour.

Neutrals are the easiest route to an understated theme - and, just as we've shown in the previous pages, you needn't stint on mixing and matching different types of pattern. However, that doesn't mean you have to stick to muted browns and greys. This scheme would be just as sophisticated in grey-blue, pale green, even light pink or yellow.

However, it's worth matching the highlight tone within your pattern - here, it's a pale grey - to the background colour on your walls, floors and windows. Why? This will help tie the colour scheme together, particularly in a big room.

As for added interest, look for texture. Here, the sofa has a raised velour that invites you to stroke it; the fabric has a light sheen to it that reflects daylight, and the throw, while all white, has an intricate pattern that adds another layer of interest.

To give the room a contemporary lift, add a contrast. It could be a modern anglepoise lamp, a framed black and white photograph or, as here, some modern shelves in a natural, but contrasting, colour. Keep the clutter to a minimum in a room that has a more traditional approach - this will help keep it feeling modern, yet sophisticated.

Get Pattern Scales Right

2011-03-28T05:12:00.000-07:00

So, you want to match lots of patterns together? Here's how...
Get Pattern Scales Right

So, just how do you choose patterns and prints that will work together? It's all about the colours and pattern sizes.

How To Do It

No matter your colour scheme, getting lots of pattern in one room - and getting it right - is never easy. The best approach is to not try to do it all at once. Ideally, you'll get the background print - usually the wallpaper - right, then add pattern within accessories and furniture afterwards. But doing so does make it hard to envisage the finished result.

So, how to attempt to do the room all at once, co-ordinating both colour and pattern?

Start with the one thing you must have. It might be a wallpaper, a rug, a piece of furniture. Then, build the scheme around it. Let's say in the room above, the wallpaper was the must-have item. Where do you go from there?

Ideally, you'd want a plain flooring to set off such a pattern - and the greater the contrast, the more dramatic the result. The silvery sheen in the wallpaper suggests that a monotone approach to both the flooring and the wallpaper would work - and a black/grey/white scheme would also tone down the femininity of the wallpaper's colour.

Then, the choice of patterns. Just because you have a nature-inspired wallpaper, it doesn't mean you have to have similarly themed accessories. Here, a wisteria pattern on the chest of drawers mixes happily with a leopard print, an abstract and a graphic print on the upholstery, and with plains on the chest-top and within the mirror frame.

Equally, you needn't stick to the same proportions for your print and pattern-repeats. You can mix and match big prints with small ones, but if you do, keep your colour scheme very limited - the more pattern you have, the less colour you'll need or want.

So, should you buy co-ordinated ranges? For example, would this scheme work if the cushions were from the same range? Our advice would be to limit your purchase of obviously co-ordinated pieces. Doing so will make your scheme look contrived - and it's much more important for it to look like it's all come together by accident if you want it to look contemporary.

Mixing Styles Successfully

2011-03-28T05:04:00.001-07:00

Pattern is the perfect antidote to modern, minimal living, but it's SO easy to get it wrong. So, how to colour scheme and co-ordinate with pattern,
whether in wallpapers, upholstery, fabrics or accessories? Follow our guide to getting it right.
Mixing Styles Successfully

Be bold and mix modern and traditional prints in vibrant hues for a show-stopping scheme that oozes retro style, but is actually bang up to date.

How To Do It

Why does this look work? The trick is in the limited use of colours and in the consistent approach to shapes.

There's no hard and fast rule when it comes to colour scheming, but if you stick to three different colours at the most, you will find the room easier to bring together.

Within those three different colours, don't forget there are literally hundreds of tones to choose from, so your scheme should end up with a layered, warm look.

So, here the base for the scheme is a combination of warm browns - in the flooring, side table, cushion fabrics and wallpaper. The second background colour, the wine shade within the sofa, blends perfectly with the browns, while the highlight shade, a bold orange, picks up the warm tones in both the wood and wallpaper.

As for the furniture - it's a real mix. There's a retro style sofa, a contemporary high-gloss coffee table and a period style mirror. But, it works because all the shapes are square-ended, so none fights the other for attention. Then, the table lamp, which has all the colours of the scheme within it, breaks all the rules for a fun finish.

Make A Dark Room Lighter And Brighter

2011-03-28T05:01:00.000-07:00

You might not have to do very much to improve a room's atmosphere - and you may already have all the materials you need at home to do the trick.
But if you've got a room that's gloomy, making it lighter and brighter will also make it feel bigger and more welcoming.

Make A Small Room Look Bigger

2011-03-28T04:56:00.000-07:00

Just as you can make a room look lighter, there are tricks you can use to make a small room look bigger. No time to do it now? Use the rest of the weekend to flick through our gallery to tell you how...